The Transcontinental Race is the definitive self-supported bicycle race across Europe. At the sharp end it is a beautifully hard bicycle race, simple in design but complex in execution. Factors of self reliance, logistics, navigation and judgement burden racers’ minds as well as their physiques. The strongest excel and redefine what we think possible, while many experienced riders target only a finish.

The Transcontinental is a single stage race in which the clock never stops. Riders plan, research and navigate their own course and choose when and where to rest. They will take only what they can carry and consume only what they can find. Four mandatory control points guide their route and ensure a healthy amount of climbing to reach some of cycling’s most beautiful and historic monuments. Each year our riders cover around 4,000 km to reach the finish line.

2022 was my year…!

Preparation

Originally, I was meant to race TCR back in 2020, but Covid meant I had to wait it out for a couple of years and a couple of route changes. The result was that this was going to be the longest TCR in history at over 4,200km.

I was raising money for Cancer Research UK in memory of my great friend, Dan Goode:

“At 10pm this Sunday night, I start The Transcontinental Race (TCR). The TCR is a 4,000km unsupported bike race across Europe from Geraardsbergen in Belgium to Burgas on the Black Sea in Bulgaria. I have to navigate through 4 control points scattered across east and west Europe, contend with the Alps and Carpathian mountains, the intense heat of the Balkans and potentially wolves and bears in rural Romania. It feels like a trip into the unknown – physically, mentally and culturally – I will pass through up to 14 countries including 6 in Eastern Europe I’ve never visited. And all this in only 2 weeks…!

As well as an immense personal challenge, I am also riding in memory of my great friend Dan Goode who tragically died of bowel cancer back in 2020 at the age of 41. Dan was also a very keen cyclist and when we lived together he was constantly taking bikes apart and putting them back together in the kitchen. His nominated charity is Cancer Research UK. We have reached the target of £10,000 already, but if you are able to, I would be very grateful if you could make a small donation.

I was also very honoured to be joined by a large group of Audax Club Mid-Essex (ACME) riders last night at the pub for a memorable send off. I have learnt a huge amount from all of them over the years and I certainly wouldn’t be on the start line without their input, support and encouragement. Thank you guys xx”

I was slightly undercooked fitness-wise going into TCR but I was pretty confident about my bike, equipment and route which helped balance things.

I was on the Jaegher I had used for TPR and RATN and I was familiar with all its vagaries. I decided to have it serviced before the race and I only needed to change the bearings in the bottom bracket and slap on some new GP5000 tyres and some extra bottle cages on the forks.

Equipment wise I decided not to sleep out unless it was an emergency (I carried an emergency bivvy and a down jacket just in case). Otherwise, it was the minimum amount I felt I could get away with. I also used some new xterra triathlon MTB shoes which I hoped would be a little cooler in the heat of the Balkans. There had been a lot prevarication about the jersey – in the end I let The Dutch Wife choose it for me!

Geraardsbergen

The trip out to Belgium was fairly relaxing – I went via the Harwich-Hook ferry and then a train from Rotterdam to Brussels rather than mess around with the Dover-Calais route. Met up with some familiar faces the night before the race – namely Karl, Parky, Jason and a few others. Most of the conversation centred around trying to wind each other up about route and equipment choices, but it was a fun evening and helped calm the nerves a little.

The race started at 10pm so most of the day leading up to that is checking in, briefing and then hanging out. It’s quite a moment when you finally pick up your cap, I was 88. Even had time to give a very nervy interview to Angela Walker who was representing Kinesis, one of the sponsors.

You can watch that here

Eventually night starts to fall and people begin gathering in the main square for the grand depart. The mayor gave us a good old send off and rang the bell for the start of the race. There is a neutralised circuit of the town before climbing up the famous Muur – a steep cobbled street out of Geraardsbergen. The Muur was lined with hundreds of people with torches and a cacophony of noise – a great send off! And then everything is quiet and I went the wrong way at the first turning…

Below are my “microblogs” and photos of each day recorded during the race (in italics)

Day 1 – Geraardsbergen (BEL) to Lauenförde (DEU) – 455.80km, 2,634m

“Probably too long a day in hindsight. Plan is to clock the miles when it’s in my wheel house – flat and not too warm. But I made some silly mistakes today which I hope won’t affect the rest of the race. Started to cramp up at the end on the climbs which is worrying. Currently sipping lots of electrolytes.

In terms of the scenery today, it wasn’t that exciting. Crossing the Rhine was a highlight, found a quiet cycle lane which was lovely near werst. However, the last 50km were simply stunning in the evening light.”

Day 2 – Lauenförde (DEU) to Chemnitz (DEU) – 325.98km, 2,315m

“Bit slow to get going this morning and then faffed all day. It was a cool day with a strong tailwind, so I really needed to take advantage to bank some miles for later in the race. The result of all the faffing was that I had to hotel time trial the last 70km in 3 hours. Of course, that’s when RWGPS decides to take you on a magical mystery tour on some gravel through some woods…!”

Day 3 – Chemnitz (DEU) to Lovosice (CZE) – 204.68km, 3,887m – CP1

“A day for the grimpeurs – savagely tough parcours. Would like to have gone further, but no hotels available further down the road. Made it to CP1 in 108th, I think. Will have to get up early for a long day tomorrow 😬

Scenery fabulous today after a slightly damp start.”

Day 4 – Lovosice (CZE) – Gütlsdorf (DEU) – 346.30km, 3,670m

“Early start to make up for yesterday and managed to get a good stint in helped by a generous tailwind.

Czechia was lumpier than expected – it looks flat but it’s big country and the rolling hills are formidable. Rode at length through hop fields and maize, roads lined with fruit trees. The endless up and down was punctuated by small towns with large bombastic buildings to suit the landscape.

Long downhill into Germany and then a few lumps before the Danube – the first of three crossings I hope! The last hill almost broke me and I resorted to walking for a bit. Nice and flat after the Danube, and very pretty through more hop fields following a river littered with small villages, each with their own painted church.

In time for dinner at the hotel. Decent day. Tough one into the alps tomorrow… (they’re all tough days!)”

Day 5 – Gütlsdorf (DEU) to St. Valentin auf der Haide (ITA) – 282.35km, 2.263m

“Day of 2 halves – first 160km sped through Munich and down to Garmisch where I found Karl #tcrno8cap78 a friend from TPRNo1. Felt good from the off and was averaging 25kph.

Then the rain started. Horrendously busy on the Fern Pass, just a constant stream of traffic. Wasn’t pleasant being there, but no other way through. Relief to be on cycle paths when I could.

Second big climb of the day was long but not too bad. Fortunately the traffic had died down by the evening. Everyone on holiday – loads of Dutch around as always!

Anyways, in Italy now and starting to get into it. Missed my hotel as my phone went into emergency mode and I had no idea where I was going! Fortunately another hotel kindly looked after me. 2 massive climbs tomorrow and CP2 hopefully…”

Day 6 – St. Valentin auf der Haide (ITA) – Romano d’Ezzelino (ITA) – 242.14km, 3,007m – CP2

“Bit of a strange day but very enjoyable. 3 big alpine passes took up most of the day – Umbrail, Gavia and Tonale. And then a manic 170km dash to a hotel above a Cuban nightclub.

Too much to talk about here, but got to CP2 in 78th place – an improvement of 30 places. Had fun hanging out with Karl and other riders after each climb. Beautiful scenery and 2 annoying routing errors. All in all a very full on day. Plus my Garmin decided not to record the Gavia climb so it’s closer to 280km.”

Day 7 – Romano d’Ezzelino (ITA) – Rijeka (HRV) – 288.56km, 1,687m

“Bit of a disaster today, but still managed to do what I needed to do. First, left my brevet in the hotel room entailed 28km of extra cycling to retrieve it. Then I managed to hit a pothole very hard outside Portogruaro resulting in pinch flats in both tyres – something I’ve never managed before! Fortunately I think both frame and wheels are ok, but I keep on checking to make sure.

Scenery today wasn’t the best – lots of local riders out and about early, and then from about 10am you saw no one! Only other idiots like me. Pan flat and featureless, long straight roads didn’t make for a very exciting day. I did go through Prosecco country and there were plenty of people knocking it back at 11 in the morning as I went into a grab a cold drink.

Road through Slovenia was lovely and I finally booked and arrived at my apartment at 11pm.

About 2,000km left to do in 8 days. But now it gets proper tough. I’m already making silly mistakes and we have a lot of hot hills to look forward to…”

Day 8 – Rijeka (HRV) to Knin (HRV) – 251.82km, 2,796m

“Slightly shorter day (minimum safe distance covered). Wanted an early night and proper food.

The day started with a long hot but beautiful climb off the coast. Initially through lots of charming villages with ruins of castles and then into the wilderness. Even though I carry 4 bottles with me I was down to my last 200ml and rationing water before I finally came across a restaurant 😰

Good lunch with Karl and then a fast afternoon along the plateau between two ridges. Damsons lined the road and sheep sheltered under olive trees. Everything is starting to feel more Mediterranean.

Day was spoilt a little by the last 50km. Road busy with fast lorries, little in the way of hard shoulder and the scariest, sketchiest descent ever – uneven road surface, exposed and close passes – pretty intense. Had to stop and scream a couple of times!

Massive pizza to get over the trauma and I found Croatian Crocs (well Crocos)!”

Day 9 – Knin (HRV) to Gacko (BIH) – 276.03km, 3,006m

“Well, what can I say about today… TCR really tested me.

The morning was fine – left early and covered the first 130km to Imotski without too much drama, and I’m pretty good time.

Crossed the border into Bosnia, had a little break and an ice cream, and then a fairly straightforward climb up to a ridge above Mostar. Mostar had always worried me because every time I’d looked at the weather forecast before TCR, it was always showing 35 degrees plus.

The town is situated in an rocky amphitheatre and it seems to magnify the heat like a cauldron. As I dropped down into the outskirts, it just kept getting hotter and hotter. By the time I rode to the shop I’d earmarked for a stop, my head had gone fuzzy. Despite drinking non stop all day. I just couldn’t cope.

After 2 ice creams and more dehydration, I set off not realising I had a 25km climb to get out the other side of the amphitheatre. There was no shade and the dry arid countryside offered no shelter. The first 10km were probably at about 8% with little wind. A wild fire raging out of control way below me and I could hear the call for prayers. I could easily have been in a Middle Eastern country.

The climb was really tough, but what made it tougher was the narrow lane being close passed by what felt every other driver. You start getting a knack for working out which vehicle is behind you. It’s almost like a cycle proficiency test with each vehicle seeing if you can steer a straight line – the closer they get the more points you get…

Joking aside, a juggernaut came so close I could have reached out and touched it. And when you’re half suffering from heat stroke and climbing a steep hill in the lowest gear, let’s just say I was very lucky not too be hit. There followed in my head a rant about everything and why the fuck am I putting myself in danger every day. Was ready to quit there and then.

There was a small drop down into the valley the other side. And suddenly it felt I was back in Europe with a verdant valley and traditional fields. It took all the grit and determination I had left to ride the last 40km. Quite easily the hardest day’s riding I ever done…”

Day 10 – Gacko (BIH) to Jasenovo (SRB) – 227.81km, 4,291m – CP3

“Well, what a difference a day makes. Got on my bike first thing and the emotions of yesterday were still with me and I started to well up.

But I soon got down to the climb up to the dodgy border crossing into Montenegro. Apparently some people have been fined or turned back, but it was still quite early so I slipped through unnoticed.

After a rather underwhelming reception from CP3 (compared to CP2 that is) I got on with the parcours. Durmitor is simply stunning. I climbed through granite tunnels to the most amazing views of peaks and meadows. It was rightly popular with cars there from all over Europe.

I bumped into Karl again, and after an emotional reunion we freewheeled down the mountain and had lunch together. I left before him and the rest of the day was climb after climb. Another day for the grimpeurs.

But Montenegro is beautiful and well worth a visit. Serbia is beautiful too, but just mad. Busy everywhere, and certainly my first introduction was intimidating, especially when a dog almost ran out under my wheel during a 50kph downhill.

As I usually do, I gave myself a slightly unrealistic accommodation target (distance wise) and I chose something that looked like a shack in the middle of nowhere. And of course, at first, I couldn’t find it – cue a little panic. A dog came over and sniffed me for comfort. After a while I finally found it and the reception was amazing – coffee and water melon all round!”

Day 11 – Jasenovo (SRB) to Zaječar (SRB) – 291.36km, 2,315m

“Today felt like a transition day in my head and something I just had to get through. My only knowledge of Serbia is through the news growing up and stories of dodgy driving and dogs from TCR veterans.

However, Serbia surprised me – the morning consisted of charming climbs through beautiful countryside finishing with a long drop down to Kraljevo.

Not being the swiftest climber, I chose a flat route through Serbia. And I’m glad I did. By 11am it was absolutely sweltering – 35+

I limped from ice cream shop to garage for the next 100km or so, 20km at a time. After the peaceful morning, I was on a much busier road, but the drivers were pretty good. Everyone in Serbia seems to be an entrepreneur – every village has about 6 shops selling the same array of Doritos, seven days croissants, ice cream and various bottles of coloured stuff. All the fridges are on the outside of the shops, so it makes for quite a colourful scene – a bit like South America.

This is counterpointed by the rubbish every where and the rotting carcasses of dogs hit on the road. Strange how road kill changes as you move through each country. Northern Europe was all songbirds…

A quick final 80km saw an early finish, but I’ve found myself in a mad Irish bar with slow service. Into Romania tomorrow and hopefully within spitting distance of CP4.”

Day 12 – Zaječar (SRB) to Rânca (ROU) – 280.56km, 3,141m

“Very slow to warm up today. And the mind wasn’t in the game. Long rolling hills all the way up to the Danube. Riding big roads can be a little dull at times – they’re perfunctory, don’t have much soul.

Crossing the Danube was pretty straightforward and I was into Romania. A bit of lorry dodging on the way into Severin on the E road (one of the few allowed sections). Was getting hot, again, probably mid 30s.

I tried to buy some new inner tubes and went into a shop that seemed to sell bicycles and other kids stuff. When I tried to mime inner tube to the poor lady, she immediately understood and took me straight over to where the soap bubble guns were 🤦‍♂️

Fairly uneventful up to Targa Jiu where I collected up Karl again and we did the usual thing of limping between shade and ice creams.

The road out of Targa Jui was absolutely horrendous – worst of the trip so far. Narrow and very busy. I just put my foot down and hooned it out of there as quickly as possible.

Day was finished off with a massive 20km climb in the dark pass chasing dogs on the way to transalpina and CP4. Tomorrow is probably the “Queen Stage” of the whole race – a very dodgy gravel parcours and then I have to get far enough down the road to make a ferry on Sunday. Should be interesting…”

Day 13 – Rânca (ROU) to Pitești (ROU) – 219.35km, 2,689m – CP4

“The day started off fine – stiff climb up to the top of transalpina, and then a drop down to CP4 the other side – freezing. Nice vibe going on there and we chatted and had coffee. Karl had got there at 4am 😬

Mended one of the inner tubes so I had a spare for the parcours – a 45km gravel fest.

The gravel initially was great fun and made a nice change – something else to concentrate on. Although my bike can handle gravel, I had fast slicks on, so it was a little tricky in places. The initial rocky gravel gave way to a forest with easier paths, so I could go a little faster. Until disaster struck – a puncture on the front wheel.

On closer inspection, I noticed a massive tear in the tyre 😱 I fitted one of BFC’s trusty tyre boots and soldiered on, although a little more tentatively.

Despite it’s technical nature, the ride was absolutely spectacular. Some of the most beautiful country I’ve seen. The nice forest tracks gave way to grass and then to heavily rutted sand, which was probably the worst of the lot. A poorly executed drop off found me ejected over the handlebars and practically onto my head. Fortunately both the bike and I were fine, though a little battered and bruised. The last 5km of this stuff took me an hour…

Getting back in smooth tarmac was a godsend, especially for the rear end! After an E road sprint dodging lorries and caravans I turned up this delightful valley with typical Romanian haystacks in the fields. And then more gravel…

The climb back over the top wasn’t too bad with lots of houses and people and pets and goats and cows, etc… I was a little wary coming down the gravel the other side. And whilst overtaking a car that was going 2mph I managed another pinch flat and got ejected out the side. The woman in the car just laughed at me and sped off at 3mph.

Again, another patch, another repair and I was off again. However, this time I noticed there was a little damage to the side wall of the tyre as well. I limped very tentatively down the last bits of gravel, fearing disaster could strike at any moment.

I think this partly fuelled my decision to ride through the night, get the first ferry and finish tomorrow. But after slamming into 2 very nasty lips in the road which sent my water bottles flying, I decided to call it a day.

I’m now riding slightly on tiptoes thinking that if I hit any small thing in the road, the bike will fall apart. Anyway, under 500km to go 😊

Good luck to those doing LEL – Bonne Route!”

Day 14 – Pitești (ROU) to Targovishte (BGR) – 317.76km, 1,636m

“Just a quickie…! Had a little lie in and left the hotel at 0630 and had to make the ferry across the Danube at 1430 – 170km or so in 8 hours.

The route was mostly downhill with some undulations. First through small farms of drizzled sunflowers and then bigger cut fields – not the most exciting countryside. The people brought a little interest – bescarfed old women with bowed legs taking their cows for a walk, old men on fixed wheel squeaky bikes off to who knows where.

Got to the ferry with 30 mins to spare. Bumped into a few other riders after a quick time trial back to the local town to get water and coke.

Bulgaria seems much calmer, which suits my mood. Much less densely populated and the towns I’ve seen are quite brutal communist type places.

I could have gone on through the night and finished in the early hours. But I want to see some of Bulgaria and be safe. Although I’m only 170km away now, I’m aware quite a lot could happen in that time, especially if I’m tired. Had a reminder this morning, when a car overtook me and then turned into me. Fortunately I was able to go with the car and no damage was done. But it’s not over until I’m in Burgas!”

Day 15 – Targovishte (BGR) to Burgas (BGR) – 169.05km, 1572m – Finish!

“So I’ve finished. Early start and big push to the finish. Linda and Mum there to welcome me – very emotional! Thank you everyone for your support. I read all your messages and they kept me going – thank you xx”

Round Up

“I covered roughly 4,220km and 42,000m of climbing in about 14 days and 13 hours. I averaged about 290km a day at an average riding speed of 22kph. I had about 5.5 hours of sleep per night and burnt 7,500 calories a day. And the big one – I lost about 6kg in body weight!

It’s too early to reflect on everything. I was very tired this morning and after a big breakfast went back to bed for a few hours…

I still don’t see myself as a cyclist really, there are some amazing people doing this race. But the bicycle is a great tool for doing the things I love – seeing new places, experiencing different cultures and climbing up mountains!”

TCR is such a crazy, hot and dangerous race, but incredibly rewarding. I still enjoy going back and reading the comments people made on my posts during the race and it reminds me I’m physically and mentally capable of so much. The aftermath is always hard for me – low energy always goes hand in hand with poor mental health and it took me a long time to recover fully, mostly mentally. But I wouldn’t swap the experiences I had for anything in the world…